Ah yes – IPA

From left to right in this picture you see: (5 gal. jugs) Ah yes -IPA, and Yarrow Honey Mead (1 gal. jugs) Raspberry Melomel, Pear & Rhubard Melomel, and Rhubarb Melomel


-3lb. Light malt extract

-4 lb. Amber malt extract

-1 lb. Crystal malt

-1/2 lb. Toasted malted barly

-7 oz. Cascade hops

-2 oz. Northern Brewer hops

-2 tsp. Gypsum

-1/2 tsp Irish moss

-1 pkg. WYEAST (Irish Ale)

-1 1/4 cup Amber malt extract (for priming)

This is another recipe from “The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing” by Charlie Papazian. I did make some modifications based both on what was available to me, and my own taste. I used liquid malt extract instead of the dry malt extract that the recipe called for. I’m not sure what the implications of this change will be. Liquid malt extract is readily and cheaply available to me in bulk from the local U-Brew establishment. (As are all the other ingredients.)

I am apparently the only customer in Powell River who uses the U-Brew for their bulk ingredient purchasing service, everyone else pays them to make the beer for them! The guy there does all the work and to make it legal, the customer has to go and pitch the yeast. That brew-master’s got pretty sweet job if you ask me. The health food stores in town also sell some beer and wine-making equipment, but only the “basic” kit-brewing supplies are available and they are more expensive. You can however find drilled bungs at the health-food store. It’s so nice to find a place that will drill your bung at a reasonable rate. Ah yes, drilled bungs.

Back to beer. This recipe was described as sweeter than a traditional IPA. I prefer a dryer beer so I upped the hops. Hop hop hops. I Added the bittering hops (Northern Brewer) several times throughout the process instead of just at the beginning. I also added the aromatic hops (Cascade) 10 minutes before the end of the boil and again during the last minute. I plan on adding 5oz of Cascade again when I transfer the beer into the secondary fermenter.

The Irish Moss was also not part of the original recipe. Irish Moss is a positive addition to almost any brew. Actually, it is a negative addition with a positive result. Irish moss is negatively charged and attracts the positively charged precipitated and coagulated proteins in the brew-pot. This causes the proteins to settle to the bottom, helping the beer to become clear and less cloudy. I also use Irish moss in mead.

I’ll keep ya’ll poster on how it goes.


4 Responses

  1. By the way, when I went to pitch the yeast, I realized that they had given me a lager yeast by accident and I didn’t want to use it because I don’t have a cool spot to put the fermenter. I had to wait about 5 days before I could get the ale yeast from town and by the time I got there the beer was already fermenting away all by itself! You might think this is not good, but I think it must have been the proper yeast on the equipment from the last batch that just survived my attempt at sterisization. Anyway, I added my package of WYEAST anyway to outnumber any bad little buddies that might have been in there. It’s been pretty hot out too so it all fermented pretty quickly. I am going to put in in the 2ndary fermenter on Monday and dry-hop. All in all, this will be very experimental and I’ll never be able to reproduce the results!

  2. Holy moly! 10 oz of hops? Yo kray-zee!

    Good thing you didn’t use the lager yeast – at hot temperatures it just makes everything smell like apples and butter (not in a good apple crisp way, more like a sack of rotten apples with that buttery sauce that they put on your popcorn at the movies).

    Sounds like you may have a wild yeast doing some business. Just wait until the fermentation is complete and see how it smells. The good news is that you have so much hop madness going on that it will likely cover up most/any funk going on. Rock on!

  3. Also, post a picture or your tale is pure fiction and it never happened!

  4. There, finally got a picture in. This is the 2ndary fermenter and the beer has been dry-hopped with 5 oz. of Cascade hops. This is a total of 7 oz. of hops for this beer – 2 at the time of the boil and 5 dry hopped.

    This brew seems to be totally done fermenting but i’m going to leave it in there a few weeks anyway to get good and hoppy.

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