Growing Hops – Part 5 – Training (Week 4)

From here on in I will forgo the “Part” editions and just post updates on a weekly basis.

So, week 4 saw some more growth.  Of the several bines that initially poked up through the soil, only one has really taken off.  Perhaps this is because I the planter is too far from the window and the only light I have is from the desk lamp (Rob!  Remember our old merch lamp?  I’m putting it to good use now!).  The light from the lamp is sufficient, as I have a light measuring device (thanks to work) and it cranks out the same intensity as direct sunlight,, at 4 inches away.  I think that I will have to get another lamp to help provide more light coverage while I train the bines towards the window where it will get full sunlight.  Its this first 1~2 foot span that has minimal sunlight that the artificial light will have to supplement the light requirements.

Growing Hops – Part 4 – Week 3

I was very surprised when I came back from the long weekend to see this..

I have a feeling that “very vigorous” is going to be a constant theme with this plant.  I’ve seen pictures of leaves as big as 12″ diameter!  This could get interesting..

Growing Hops – Part 3 – It’s Alive!

Small update.  Its alive and growing well.  One leaf and what looks like the start of 4 bines.  I have a 42W (150W incandescent) Daylight fluorescent bulb a few inches away from the growth, on for 14 hours per day.  Seems to be enough light to make a happy humulus.  I’ll post another update when it grows a little more.

The Belgian Bomb

This is a big one.

A huge one to be exact.  The starting gravity was 1.130!  With a projected final gravity of 1.034 this brew will be roughly 12.5% abv.  If I play a few tricks I can probably get the final gravity down a bit more which will reduce the perceived sweetness and boost the alcohol percentage even more.  Who knows what its going to be in the end, barley wine, a quad, a Belgian strong dark ale…

So here is the ingredient list…


Pale Malt, 2 row – 7.8 lbs

Pilsner Malt – 8.3 lbs

Flaked Wheat – 2 lbs (adds body, thickness)

Caramunich Malt – 1 lb

Caravienne Malt – 1 lb

Chocolate Malt – 1.9 oz

Dark Candi Sugar (added some coffee to the candi sugar while I was making it) – 4.4 lb


Northern Brewer – 1 oz @ 60 minutes

German Tradition – 1 oz @ 50 minutes

German Tradition – 1 oz @ 40 minutes

Mount Hood – 1 oz @ 30 minutes


Campden tablet (half) – eliminates chloromines in the water

pH 5.2 Stabilizer – corrects the ph of the water during mashing

Whirlfloc – helps to clear the beer and reduce excessive foaming during fermentation

Yeast Nutrient – Required since this is such a big beer


Wyeast – Belgian Ardennes (Achouffe strain)

I’ll start from the start..starter.

Since this beer was going to be so big, a single packet of wyeast was not going to be enough to get this beer off on the right foot.  One packet of wyeast contains 100 billion cells, which sounds like a lot, but according to I was going to require +400 billion yeast cells.  4 times as much!  This is where the starter comes into play.  I used a 2L Erlenmeyer flask, a stir bar and a stir plate that I made with some magnets and an old computer fan.  Basically I made a mini 1.5L batch of beer with some Dry Malt Extract and pitched in the wyeast package.  I spun the mini batch with the stir bar for 24 hours, put the flask in the fridge for another 24 hours (to settle the yeast to the bottom of the flask), then I made a second 1.5L mini batch and added it to the flask.  Again I spun that on the stir plate for 24 hours, again put it in the fridge for another 24 until I had finally finished growing just over 400 billion very active and fresh yeast cells.

Stir plate in action.  Dry malt extract to the left, wyeast packet to the right.

So why use a stir plate?  Well without it the yeast tend to sink right to the bottom where they aren’t exposed to the fresh wort.  The stir plate keeps all the yeasties in the action as well as keep the wort well oxygenated which helps yeast grow.

With plenty of yeast now ready to go, it was off to the mash.

The first thing I did was fill my boil/hot liquor tank with 10 gallons of filtered water.  I also added in a half of a campden tablet which removes chloromines that are present in the water thanks to Hamilton waterworks.  I then set the temperature controller to 152F and left the water to heat up.

This recipe was quite ambitious at 21 lbs of grain.  I was a little fearful that my 8.5 gallon mash tun was not going to hold all of this grain, but very carefully I managed to fit it all.  I put my Victoria grain mill on my little cart with the mash tun right underneath.  I weighed all the grain and ground up 2 lbs at a time (size of the grain mill hopper).  Every 2 lbs of grain I added some heated water, repeating the crushing and mashing all the way up to 21lbs.  It was kind of like making a layer cake of grains.  I did it this way because trying to mix that much grain with water would be a very tough activity which would probably result in a lot of dough balls.  This method also let me mix in the minimal amount of water needed which helped compact the grain so that it all fit well.  All the while I had been running the pump to drain the added water in the mash tun, circulate it through a copper coil that is installed in my boil/hot liquor tank, and then pumped back to the top of the mash tun.  This allows the mashing water to be reheated to the same temperature of the water in the boil kettle.  Slick!

Boil Kettle / Hot Liquor Tank (notice the copper coil for mash reheating)

Mash tun with the grain mill to the left.  The copper manifold at the bottom collects the wort.

Grain mill with grain in hopper, tea-towel to keep dust and ground bits from flying around.

Almost full.

Mash tun is full.  The silicone tub is connected to the copper coil in the boil kettle – this returns the wort to the top of the grain bed where it again drains to the manifold and gets reheated by the copper coil again.  Recirculation.  This keeps the grain at a consistent temperature.  Notice the wort is very dark looking now.

The mash tun on the cart wrapped in a towel to reduce heat loss.  Notice the pump at the bottom of the cart.  This is what pushes the wort up to and through the copper coil in the boil kettle.  The boil kettle is on the fridge doing its thing.

Hot water in the boil / hot liquor tun.  Again you can see the copper coil.

With the grain all added in and mash water/wort recirculating, all I had to do was wait.  I kept the mash tun at 135F for 30 minutes during the mash-in, then up to 150F for 60 minutes, 152F for 10 minutes and then finally 165F for 15 minutes for the mash out.  During the mash out I slowly drained the wort from the mash tun into a bucket while simultaneously adding the fresh water to the top of the mash tun.  This step is called sparging – it is done to rinse the grains of remaining sugars so that you get all the good stuff.  With a 15 minute sparge I ended up with 10 gallons of hot wort, which was a little more than I would have liked.

The next step was then adding all of the hot wort into the boil kettle.  I could have simply lifted the buckets up and poured them into the boil kettle, but I opted not to for two reasons.  Firstly I thought it would be dangerous to lift hot sticky sugar water above my head, and secondly I wanted to avoid hot side aeration which can cause off-flavours later on down the road.  So I hooked up my pump and transferred the wort to the kettle.

Dark wort in the bucket with the pump to the left.

Boil kettle almost full of wort.

Now this is where things got a little dodgy.  I didn’t take any pictures of the boil because things got a little intense.  First off I had an incident where the hose that was filling the boil kettle with wort whipped out and spray the walls and my entire body with hot wort.  That was NOT fun.  While I emerged uninjured I was extremely sticky.  Normal wort is not so bad, but this stuff (being a barley wine wort) was just silly.  The next problem that I encountered was that I had too much wort in my boil kettle.  Now I did have a secret weapon to eliminate foam and any chance of a boil-over, and its called Fermcap.  This stuff is literally magic!  It is a surfactant that completely removes foam so that you won’t have to worry about boil-overs.  Unfortunately I still had too much wort.  I had to get down to 6 gallons from 10+, and I still had to add in the 2kg of dark candi sugar.

But, everything eventually went back on track.  I managed to boil off enough liquid, add all the hops on-time, add the dark candi sugar as well as the whirlfloc and yeast nutrient.  In the end my boil was a little longer than I wanted it to be, 120 minutes, but so it goes..

The chilling of the wort was next.  I rigged up the boil kettle to the pump and then to the chiller which is cooled by tap water from the garden hose.  Its a nifty gadget.  And to sanitize the entire chilling system I just recirculated the boiling wort for the last 15 minutes of the boil through the systen and pumped it back into the boil kettle.  When the boil timer was up, I turned on the cold tap water to cool the chiller, and pumped the rapidly cooled wort into the carboy.

The chiller is the red hose coil.  The red hoses are for the cooled tap water and the silicone white hoses are for the wort.

Glass carboy filled with cooled wort.

Unfortunately this sticky mess was left for clean-up.  Notice the bag sitting in the boil kettle.  This is what I put the pellet hops in so that they don’t clog up the valves and chilling system after the boil.

Next step, aeration.  The cooled wort has to be aerated for the yeast to get to work.  I use to just hold my carboy like a baby and vigorously shake it about, but I decided that this was a bad and unsafe practice.  So I ended up getting a small aquarium pump and an aeration stone which will easily aerate the wort in 15~30 minutes with no shaking required.  After that, the yeast was pitched into the carboy.

As a sort of a side note, I ended up getting a 6.5 gallon larger carboy off of kijiji for $20.  This carboy is has that extra space which is required for the foamy krausen to do its thing and hopefully not have any issues with blow-offs.

You will notice the black tube that goes from the top of the carboy into the black madness and is connected to the aeration stone that you can see near the bottom of the carboy.  This little guy just burbles away and makes a nice rich creamy foam on the top of the wort.

Erlenmeyer flask after the yeast was pitched in the carboy.

And that would seem like the end of the adventure, but it wasn’t.  I placed the carboy into my temperature controlled fermentation chamber (a fridge) and set it at 18C.  My plan is to rise this 1C per day until I get to about 25~26C and hold it there.  After consulting with the “Brew like a Monk” book, I have decided to follow their suggestions for temperature.  Start low and rise slowly.  The higher the temperature, the more the yeast become active and split out all the funky awesome esters.  But, too much too soon can make a wild and uncontrolled tasting brew.  So I’ll give it a shot.

Carboy is in the chamber.  The temperature probe is taped to the side of the carboy with a piece of foam for insulation.

It was very hard getting a gravity reading because I swiped a sample from the yeast-ed carboy which had begun fermenting.  This cause foam that I couldn’t get rid of in the sample tube.  But I think its around the 1.120~1.130 mark.  I left this sample beside the carboy in the fridge because I can keep a rough idea of how the brew is progressing.

Just 4 hours after I pitched the yeast I could see visible signs of fermentation.  That’s fast!  The yeasties must be very happy.

Where I shined the light you can see particles which were swimming around.

Before I went to bed that night I decided to bump the temperature up to 19C.

When I awoke next morning, giddy to see the fermenting Belgian Bomb as if it were a Christmas present left by Santa, I rushed down to see what was going on.  Excitement turned into a hurried rush to attach a blow-off tube.  I had initially installed a small airlock on the carboy thinking that this extra big 6.5 carboy would have been big enough.  Well I was wrong.  Very very wrong.  The airlock was distinctly dark in colour as the foam had traveled up and filled it.  It was completely plugged up, so I started to remove the rubber bung.  I heard a hiss coming from the carboy, and learning from a mistake a year ago I just held the rubber bung in place and let the hissing stop first.  Last year I just pulled the bung out and I was greeted by a gigantic spray of beer and foam.  It would have been way worse this time because the amount of pressure that had built up in the carboy was tremendous.  I probably would have found a fridge full of sticky mess, but I was lucky!  So I rigged up the blow-off tube, which is just a bigger hose that runs into a jar of StarSan sanitizer.  Immediately I saw foam being ported through the tube.  Let me tell you, when you see an airlock burbling away that is nothing to what I was seeing here.  The blow-off tube was just mercilessly spewing out co2 with a vengeance.  I decided to take a video to show the power of the Belgian Bomb!

Carboy head-space completely filled with foam, foam in blow-off tube and foam in the blow-off jar.  This all happened in less than a minute of attaching the blow-off tube.  19C.

And here’s the video!

The Belgian Bomb

I don’t know what to expect when I get home after work tonight, but I’m expecting more intense fermentation, especially as I raise the temperature.

If this thing makes it out of primary fermentation, it will be spending a long time in secondary/bulk storage, probably six months to a year.  I may even add some champagne yeast later on down the road if I am having trouble getting the final gravity down.  If that doesn’t work I may decide to use a bit of Amylase Enzyme or Beano, which will convert some of the unfermentable sugar into fermentable sugar.  But I will consider these options at a later date.  ‘Till then I have to put on a monk robe and watch the fermentation closely.

UPDATE:  May 8th 2012

Whoa!  I came home from work and I saw this…

The blow-off jar was overflowing with foam and the bottom of the fridge and the floor was covered in sticky beer/wort.  What a mess.  I cleaned it all up and replaced the blow-off jar with a fresh one.  When I woke up this morning I didn’t see anymore excessive foaming, so hopefully that episode is over.  I increased the temperature to 21C this morning after sitting at 20C all of yesterday.  The sample in the test cylinder is also fermenting along with the brew in the carboy.  I left the hydrometer in it and I am noticing that the gravity is dropping steadily.  I expect to see the gravity drop faster as I ramp up the temperature.

Here’s another video of The Belgian Bomb fermenting away.  Notice the amount of co2 being pumped into the blow-off jar.  Intense and hypnotic! ***I can’t upload the video right now because of computer dumb..


UPDATE:  May 9th 2012

CO2 bubbling has reduced to a bubble every 1~2 seconds.  I can probably remove the blow-off tube and replace it with the airlock – perhaps tonight.  The gravity in the sample cylinder is around 1.050.  The final gravity was listed at around 1.030, which is pretty high, so it may be finished soon.  I will see how things progress and where it slows down.  I might do a test on the sample cylinder with some crushed beano to see how far down the gravity will drop.  I am a little fearful as I don’t want the final gravity to go to 1.000 or it will be bone dry and weird tasting.

Bumped the temperature up to 22C.

Growing Hops – Part 2 – Planting the Rhizome

So I had a chance to plant my Mount Hood rhizome.  I got one of the biggest plastic pots that I could find and reasonably get away with in my office, filled it with organic vegetable and flower soil, dug a hole and planted the rhizome vertically.  There is so much debate about the orientation of planting a rhizome, either vertically or horizontally.  I just said, meh, and planted it vertically.  I figured that was okay because there are little shoots coming from the one size of the root, which is the end that I placed closest to the top of the soil.  I buried the rhizome about 1″ below the surface and watered the soil.

I also added on a few ‘features’ to help my little humulus plant thrive/survive.  I placed a small fan pointed at the pot to keep a good amount of air circulation going as well as a little desk lamp with a florescent ‘daylight’ bulb pointed at the soil to improve the initial light requirements of the plant.  I put both the fan and lamp on a timer so that they will automatically turn on and off.  The planter will also get about 7 hours of direct sunlight from the large window which is about a foot away.

All I have to do now is wait.

Planter full of soil with hole dug for rhizome

In goes the rhizome – good luck little buddy!

Extra lighting on timer

Fan rigged up to timer

Cracked Malibu – Lagering

As I mentioned in my previous post, the fermentation schedule for this beer was…

Primary:  3 Weeks @ 10C

Diacetyl Rest:  3 Days @ 19C  (Raises the temperature briefly so the yeast can clean up any remaining diacetyl funkiness in the beer)

Lager:  4 Weeks @ 2C


So the Primary and Diacetyl Rest had been completed and it was time to move to the lagering stage.  The first two stages took place in a glass carboy, which is a great way to see what’s taking place during fermentation.  Ale’s are considered ‘top fermenting’ in which the yeast tend to sit on top of the beer, and lagers are considered ‘bottom fermenting’ in which the yeast sit on the bottom of the fermenter to do their work.  This isn’t really true.  During primary fermentation, if you use a glass carboy, you can see the beer churning and mixing vigorously as if its in a blender.  The yeasties are actually swirling around, eating sugar, and spiting out alcohol and co2.  The co2 is a gas that rises out of the liquid and blurbs out the airlock.  Well this motion of co2 rising out of the wort/beer creates this churning affect which is great for keeping the yeast in suspension.  From what I’ve noticed though, lager yeast does pack down on the bottom of the carboy after the vigorous stage and continues to do its work from there.  I could see little co2 bubbles rising up from the bottom of the yeast cake – something that I haven’t see ale yeast do.

Once the primary was over I simply raised the temperature up a bit to do the diacetyl rest.  This rest allows the yeast to work more quickly (yeast work faster with higher temperatures) to finish cleaning up their mess, diacetyl.  It’s an off-flavour that makes the beer taste like corn and cooked vegetables.  I did actually notice a bit of a corn smell to the beer when I started the diacetyl rest, so its a good thing I did this step.

I had an open package of Mount Hood hops sitting in my fridge that I thought that I would use to ‘spice’ things up.  So I extended the diacetyl rest a little bit and added the hops directly to the beer in the primary.  Dry hopping is a great way to add fresh hoppy aroma to a beer.  When I racked the beer over to the keg I could smell the delicious aroma of the hops.  Fantastic.  However, this may be in vein since hop aroma diminished with time.  So after a month long lager I may loose quite a bit of this wonderful aroma.  Meh, oh well..

So instead of just racking this beer to another glass carboy, lagering for a month and then moving it to a keg, I’ve decided to skip a step.  I just racked the beer directly to the keg and stuck it in my beer dispensing fridge.  This way I free up my fermentation chamber for another beer.  This was a bit of a chore though because I first had to bottle all of the Clean the Cupboards Ale first.  So the taps are dry for the next month, but at least I have bottled beer in reserve.

Near the end of the lagering I will add in Gelatin, a fining ingredient, which will latch on to any suspended particle or yeast and drop it right to the bottom of the keg thus clearing the beer further.   I hope to see crystal clear beer in the end.

So here is the hidden detail in all of this.  I actually brewed two lagers, not just one.  The other lager is one that I brewed later in the day with my friend.  He paid for all the stuff so I was able to brew two beers, one for him, one for me.  Not a bad deal.  Both lagers have the exact same recipe and ingredients and yeast (I just made a big starter and split it in two for each beer), but there are differences.  His beer is 5 gallons, 4.5%, and lime juice and sea salt will be added to it before bottling, thus making “Al’s Lime Lager”.  My lager, with the same recipe, ended up being smaller in volume since I only have one 6 gallon carboy and a bunch of 5 gallons.  So it ended up being 4 gallons, 5.5%, and dry hopped with lovely Mount Hood hops.  This all worked out perfectly because I had the space in the fermentation chamber for both of them.

I had a chance to swip a small sample of Al’s Lager to see how it tastes.  I had a small sample of mine and it was pretty light and hoppy, but I was more interested in the other lager because it has not been messed around with.  I included a picture of  the Clean the Cupboards Ale beside Al’s Lager.  Stupid me though!!  I put them both in frosted glasses – I don’t know what I was thinking.  But you can get the sense of the lager being very clear already, from the clear beer in the carboy and it compared to the Clean the Cupboards Ale (which is quite clear itself).  Its going to end up looking like a crystal clear light beer, which is exactly what we are shooting for.

How does it taste?  Well, not carbonated, obviously.  Drinking non-carbed beer is difficult to judge, but I am very pleased with the results.  First off, I don’t detect any diacetyl – no cooked corn or vegetable flavour or aroma.  Its quite light in taste with a fairly dry finish (dryness is enhanced with carbonation and a cold serving temperature) which is perfectly on target.  It has a light grain taste that is mildly sweet.  Sort of like the Nickel Brook Organic Lager, but less of the grainy taste.  So for now I am extremely happy with the results, even though it is a lager.  I might have to make it again if it turns out well and I get tired of Ale’s (which isn’t very likely to happen).

Up next I have planned a Quad that I am dubbing the “Belgian Bomb”.  It will be around 11.5%, 22lbs of grain, candi sugar, and Belgian Ardennes Yeast (yeast strain from La Chouffe).  I will brew this and let it sit for a year before I touch it.  I think I’m compensating for brewing a wimpy light lager.

Growing Hops – Part 1 – Arrival of Mount Hood

A few months back I placed an order from Left Field Farms in British Columbia for a single Mount Hood Hop Rhizome.  $6.50 for a 4″ piece of a root – Sure!  Why not!  I didn’t really have a plan when I ordered it, but I did anyway.  Well, it finally arrived yesterday (May 2nd 2012).  I’m quite hopeful but I’m not all too sure if I will be successful.

I can’t plant the rhizome at home since I have no real property and I fear the dreadful Hamilton pollution.  I can plant it at my mothers house, but I would not be able to monitor its growth closely and it would be in a mostly shaded backyard.  I may be able to plant it up north near Ashley’s store, but again, I would not be able to monitor its growth.  So for now I am going to plant this in a planter box in my office.  Its obviously not ideal, but I do have large windows that face direct sun 3/4 of the day, and I can monitor its soil moisture to keep it hydrated (these things need lots of water apparently).  I may even put a supplemental fluorescent light near it to give it more light hours.  I hope that I can at least grow the root structure so that it can be transplanted next year with a better chance of survival with less attention.

I will keep posting with updates on this little project – with the next update being the planting.  Exciting!  At least I will have a little buddy at work that I can look at every day.

What’s Mount Hood?

“Mt. Hood is a triploid aroma-type cultivar, the 1983 result of a cross between the colchicine – induced tetraploid female Hallertau mf (USDA 21397) and the USDA 19058M, male plant. It is a half-sister to Ultra, Liberty and Crystal.  An aromatic variety derived from Hallertau with a refined, spicy aroma and clean bittering. A good choice for lagers. (alpha acid: 4.0-6.0% / beta acid: 5.0-7.5%)” “Typical Beer Syle:  Lager, Pilsner, Bock, Alt, Munich Helles, Wheat”

I would have went with Cascade, but that was already sold out.  So I picked this variety for a few reasons.  Its a noble type hop, so it will be great for Belgian style beers.  Its mild enough that I really can use it in any style of beer.  Also the description from Left Field Farms makes this hop seem like a champion.

“Alpha 5-8% Hallertau type, very vigorous, high yielding, early maturing. Moderately resistant to downy mildew. Good storageability. Very popular hop in the Pacific Northwest, overwinters well.”

So here’s hoping that I will be successful in at least growing a plant, and if the God’s are willing, hop cones..